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AprilMayJune
none
Joined: Feb-11-2007 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 1 |
Topic: Landscaping sand filter moundPosted: Feb-11-2007 at 10:33am |
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Hello:
I would like to somehow landscape my sand filter mound. Currently is has some type of lawn grass, which is doing poorly. Is there some other type of ground cover/grass which will do better? My main goals are something that is attractive and low maintenance. The area gets sun all day. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you! |
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DebbieTT
Admin Group
Sunset zone 5, USDA zone 8 Joined: Jan-25-2003 Location: Washington, Kitsap Peninsula Posts: 4240 |
Posted: Feb-11-2007 at 1:13pm |
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Something shallow rooted is what you want. Try any number of alpine plants.
Does your sand filter mound need good air circulation? I am trying to remember from the workshop I took if that is required? I see some people putting bark mulch over them, but if I remember right that is not such a good idea. Kinnickinnik (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) would be a good ground cover and will quickly cover the mound. Maybe some small sedges like carex. I have a friend that grows wildflowers over hers. She over seeds it in spring after weeding it. Then chops it down in fall. |
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silver_ creek
none
Joined: Jan-08-2006 Location: Washington, Western Cascade Foothills Posts: 653 |
Posted: Feb-11-2007 at 2:10pm |
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Sand septic mounds are great places for alpines. You can add rock (not solid paving) and gravel and grow quite a variety. We even terraced the sides and our septic mound has become a centerpiece of the garden.
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mdvaden
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Joined: Jul-27-2003 Location: Oregon, Western Posts: 748 |
Posted: Feb-11-2007 at 2:12pm |
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I wonder how well Japanese or Siberian Iris would do.
And the sedums that get rosy flowers, which become brown in winder. Can you block it by landscaping in the front with Miscanthus? Here's 3 photos of my own on this page... Miscanthus Miscanthus would need to be about 2' to 3' from the base of the mound. If you know where the lines are at, you can bring shrubs and small trees in much closer than generally recommended, by using 30" deep root barrier panel in a trench. If it were me, I'd have small trees as close as 4' from the base of the mound, and just run a trench for the root barrier. |
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M.D. Vaden
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DebbieTT
Admin Group
Sunset zone 5, USDA zone 8 Joined: Jan-25-2003 Location: Washington, Kitsap Peninsula Posts: 4240 |
Posted: Feb-11-2007 at 4:16pm |
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Very beautiful Terry. You can't even tell it's a mound.
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mdvaden
none
Joined: Jul-27-2003 Location: Oregon, Western Posts: 748 |
Posted: Feb-11-2007 at 5:52pm |
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Shorter the better.
Roots probably should not be over a few inches deep on the mound, and its recommended that plants not be water "lovers". Small plants are supposed to help the mound get rid of water, and any irrigation should be minimal in many cases. |
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M.D. Vaden
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GardenNut
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Joined: Sep-23-2003 Location: Washington, Western Cascade Foothills Posts: 173 |
Posted: Feb-12-2007 at 10:29am |
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Say, are these suggestions for sand mounds only, or can they be applied to regular septic drainfields as well?
Absolutely georgeous, Terry! |
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Chris Sunset 4 USDA 8a
If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need. - Cicero |
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silver_ creek
none
Joined: Jan-08-2006 Location: Washington, Western Cascade Foothills Posts: 653 |
Posted: Feb-12-2007 at 5:28pm |
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Ours is a raised sand septic drainfield, not pressurized but gravity fed. The landscaping is based what I learned about septic systems when taking a watershed masters course. There may be different considerations for the pumped systems. But this has worked very well for us and the septic system is now 26 years old.
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mdvaden
none
Joined: Jul-27-2003 Location: Oregon, Western Posts: 748 |
Posted: Feb-12-2007 at 6:07pm |
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Silver Creeks mound landscaping looks like it follows the guidelines very well.
And it looks great, too. |
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M.D. Vaden
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Lisa A
none
Joined: Aug-14-2003 Location: Oregon, Greater Portland Metro Posts: 3243 |
Posted: Feb-13-2007 at 9:08pm |
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Stunning, Terry, simply stunning!
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silver_ creek
none
Joined: Jan-08-2006 Location: Washington, Western Cascade Foothills Posts: 653 |
Posted: Feb-14-2007 at 6:56am |
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The basics I learned in my class on septic mounds- they can be covered with up to 18" of soil, open rock and gravel, an mulches are okay, solid paving is not. Non-agressively rooted plants benefit the system; even veggies can be raised (tho it was recommended we stay away from root veggies unless in raised beds). The key is still allowing air exchange, and roots to help take up and disperse the effluent. With most of our 7 acres a heavy silt or clay loam, this was the only site we could put in an alpine garden; and it has worked very well.
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DebbieTT
Admin Group
Sunset zone 5, USDA zone 8 Joined: Jan-25-2003 Location: Washington, Kitsap Peninsula Posts: 4240 |
Posted: Feb-14-2007 at 9:12am |
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I will try to locate my notes, as there is one kind of system that you aren't supposed to do any mulching and add compost to the planting hole only.
On all the systems, shallow rooted plants are the only way to go. And next to systems you don't want to plant aggressive plants or trees. Shallow rooted plants such as rhododendrons can be planted close by. Edited by DebbieTT - Feb-14-2007 at 9:12am |
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DebbieTT
Admin Group
Sunset zone 5, USDA zone 8 Joined: Jan-25-2003 Location: Washington, Kitsap Peninsula Posts: 4240 |
Posted: Feb-14-2007 at 9:22am |
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We did our workshop with the people from Tacoma. They asked for recommendations for plants and I don't know if they ever made the list for homeowners or not. But their site is helpful.
If you don't know what kind of system you have or where your lines are, it is important to get a copy of it from your county. When you landscape this will help you not make costly mistakes. Such as planting a willow to close. Pdf file on landscaping your system About your system that might be useful. |
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